Introduction
HEMA-Free Naturabuild is a builder gel designed to strengthen the natural nail and build structure, making it a versatile option for professional nail services. It can be used as a strengthening base coat or built up to support natural nail growth.
Last year, we reformulated our HEMA-Free Naturabuild to improve durability and longevity, while also making it TPO-free, and relaunched the range in four of our best-selling shades. Alongside this, we introduced our Bond & Build Primer, specifically developed to work with the new formula.
Since then, we’ve expanded the range with six new shades, giving you even more choice when creating your clients’ manicures.
But what exactly is HEMA, what makes HEMA-Free Naturabuild different, and how should you use the formula for the best results?
Here’s everything you need to know.
Table of contents
What Is HEMA?
HEMA stands for 2-Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate and is a small reactive molecule called a monomer, commonly used in gel nail products, including gel polish and nail enhancement systems. During curing, HEMA joins with other reactive ingredients to become part of the hardened gel structure. It can also help the product adhere to the natural nail.
HEMA is a known contact allergen. The concern is particularly around uncured product coming into contact with the skin, which can lead to sensitisation with repeated or prolonged exposure.
This is why careful application, avoiding skin contact and ensuring the product is correctly cured are all important parts of a professional gel service. Always follow the manufacturer's recommended lamp and curing times for the product you are using.
HEMA-free simply means that HEMA is not present in the formula. Other ingredients perform the roles needed for adhesion and curing, so being HEMA-free does not mean a product is weaker or won't last as well. However, HEMA-free does not mean allergy-free, as other acrylates and methacrylates used in gel products can also cause allergic reactions.
If a client has previously experienced a reaction to a gel product, switching to a HEMA-free formula is not automatically a safe solution. They should seek medical advice and appropriate allergy testing before using another gel product.
Why choose HEMA-Free Naturabuild?
HEMA-Free Naturabuild gives you another option when choosing products for your clients. Some clients may prefer HEMA-free products, while others may have been advised to avoid HEMA, making the choice of formula an important part of selecting the right builder gel for their needs.
Having a HEMA-free option within your professional kit gives you the flexibility to tailor your product choice to each client's individual needs and preferences.
The HEMA-Free Naturabuild Shades
The HEMA-Free Naturabuild range now includes 10 shades, giving you more choice when creating your clients' manicures. From everyday natural sets to French bases and subtle finishes, there’s a shade to suit different looks and preferences.
Here's a closer look at each shade:
The Original Shades
Nude
Our best selling shade, Nude is a versatile shade that suits all skin tones.
Pink
A neutral pink shade that is great as a base for a French manicure.
Milky Pink
A milky pink colour that is a soft, delicate shade with a hint of translucency.
Soft Nude
A soft, lighter version of everyone's favourite, Nude Naturabuild.
The New Shades
Whisper
A semi-sheer neutral pink with a soft hint of silver sparkle, adding a touch of dimension to the natural nail without overpowering.
Mist
A sheer baby pink with subtle hints of purple-blue shimmer.
Muse
A semi-sheer pink that adds a natural tint to the nail or works as a fresh base for a French manicure.
Silk
A neutral, semi-sheer shade that sits between two of our best-selling gel colours, Naked and French Pink. Soft, balanced and effortlessly wearable.
Tulle
A very sheer bubblegum pink with a subtle purple undertone.
Veil
A milky, sheer pink with a delicate, soft finish for a natural and understated look.
How To Use HEMA-Free Naturabuild
HEMA-Free Naturabuild is designed to be used as part of a system with our Bond & Build Primer. From prep through to the final finish, each step plays a part in achieving the best results.
Follow the guide below for the recommended application process.
1. Prep The Nail
Complete your usual professional nail prep, removing any existing product and shaping the natural nail as required. Push back and tidy the cuticles, remove any non-living tissue from the nail plate and gently prepare the surface ready for application.
2. Clean The Nail
Wipe each nail thoroughly with Acetone and a Lint Free Wipe to remove any remaining oils, dust or residue. Allow the nail to dry before applying your primer.
3. Apply Bond & Build Primer
Apply a thin, even layer of Bond & Build Primer over the natural nail, making sure the product is applied neatly without touching the surrounding skin. Allow the primer to air dry for 60 seconds.
Infilling? Apply Bond & Build Primer only to the exposed natural nail at the regrowth area, avoiding the existing product. Allow the primer to air dry for 60 seconds.
4. Build The Structure
Apply a thin, even layer of your chosen HEMA-Free Naturabuild shade, working neatly around the cuticle and sealing the free edge. Cure on Low Heat Mode for 90 seconds.
Apply a second, thin layer of HEMA-Free Naturabuild as a slip layer, but do not cure. Place a small bead of product in the centre of the nail to build the apex, then use a liner brush to guide the product and refine the shape.
Once cured, file to refine and shape the nail as required.
5. Finish The Manicure
Complete the manicure with Glossy Top for a high-shine, glass-like finish, then apply Rescue+ Vitamin Cuticle Oil to nourish and hydrate the skin around the nails.
For a closer look at the application process, watch the full HEMA-Free Naturabuild step-by-step video here, taking you through each stage from the first layer through to the finished manicure.
Final Thoughts
From understanding what HEMA is and why choosing a HEMA-free formula can be important, to getting to know the new shades and learning how to apply HEMA-Free Naturabuild, we’ve covered everything you need to get started with the system.
With a HEMA-free, TPO-free formula, Bond & Build Primer and 10 shades to choose from, HEMA-Free Naturabuild is designed to be a versatile addition to your professional kit. Whether you’re creating a natural finish, a French base or adding a touch of shimmer, there’s plenty to explore.
Explore the full HEMA-Free Naturabuild range and find the shades that belong in your kit.
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